Sonia Writer: Crossing the Border: A Trip to Turkish Nicosia

View of the street Arasta

As most people, know Cyprus is a divided island. Until recently, it was quite difficult to cross from the Greek to the Turkish side, but all that has changed with the open crossing points, where a valid passport or identity card will enable you to travel easily from one side of the island to the other. I often cross the border at Ledra Street in Nicosia, where there are many interesting things to see. If you are one of the many tourists, try to pick up a free map at the crossing. It’s a clear and easy to read, making it much easier to locate the museums and landmarks you may wish to visit.

Once across the border, there is a distinctly different feel to Nicosia.The area near the crossing used to be derelict but has been regenerated with clothes, handbag and jewellery shops as well as the ubiquitous kebab restaurants and cafes. There is a warren of narrow streets lined with stalls and shops. There are sewing workshops with delicate gold lace, glistening in the sun. My personal favourite is the sweet shop; with a window displays of at least thirty different flavours of Turkish Delight.

There are many sights to amuse the tourist but I will concentrate on two for this visit. The first is the Mevlevi Tekke and Museum. As a child I had been told that I tore around the house like a “Whirling Dervish.” I used to think that my grandmother had made the name up, but as I am sure you are aware; the name describes followers of a religious order who practised whirling while meditating in order to bring themselves closer to God. The Mevlevi Tekke building was an important meeting place in its day. It was built in the 17th century and contained a semahane or place for devotees to whirl. Inside the museum there is a reconstruction of a whirling scene complete with figures, which is interesting. The Mevlevi were an important social and cultural order, founded in the Ottoman times by poet Mevlana Celaleddin Rumi. The museum is inexpensive and well worth a visit.

My second and favourite place in Turkish Nicosia is the Büyük or Great Khan. It was built in 1576 by Sinan Pasha the Governor of Cyprus 1572-1579. It is constructed entirely of stone and is the biggest Khan in Cyprus. It has since become an arts centre with a lovely square courtyard. The many shops, contain local craft work; pashminas, lace and embroidery. In the centre there is a café serving Turkish food. You can watch as your “pies,” small fried pastries a little like ravioli, are made fresh on a large table, while you wait. The Turkish beer is Effes and it complements the pies beautifully.